Louis Vuitton Spring 2022 Menswear: The Power of Creativity and Sampling

Photo credit: @louisvuitton / Instagram

Louis Vuitton’s Spring 2022 menswear collection is deeper than it seems. Called Amen Break, creative director Virgil Abloh reflected about the ways pop culture and fashion influence each other, and how something can melt away when so many people work with it.

Photo credit: @louisvuitton / Instagram

What inspired Virgil Abloh

One of the inspirations was a drum solo called ‘Amen break’ by The Winstons. Originally recorded in 1969, it gained popularity during the 1980s after being used in multiple hip-hop and jungle songs, and today it is the most sampled drum break ever. Despite the success, drummer Gregory C. Coleman never received royalties for the reuse of his work.

The revolutionary creative method of sampling by black musicians, and the idea of how it was normalized and erased in the mainstream played a big role in this collection. But looking at Abloh’s past work at both Louis Vuitton and Off-White, it seems like this topic is embedded in his creative process. It is a kind of continuity that makes everything seem so unique and yet mainstream in a beautiful and interesting way.

Another main theme was chess, the concept of two entities that are always battling, and how details like a color can divide us. It is a parallel to the general situation of culture in 2020, but also a link to Vuitton’s trademarked Damier print.

There were also references to kendo, a modern Japanese martial art inspired by samurai’s combat technique with swords in feudal Japan.

Photo credit: @louisvuitton / Instagram

The final product

Louis Vuitton released a short film, directed by Mahfuz Sultan, that was as interesting as the clothes. A group of gray suits fights with the other characters in battles and clothes that resembles chess and kendo. The creative director used long skirts, furry headphone headgear, and tall hats to reference chess pieces like pawns, knights and the queen. The skirts are also part of the kendo uniform, which also inspired the padded vests and armor-plated puffers.

With the styling by Ibrahim Kamara, this collection was cohesive, fun, and makes us reflect about what is happening at the moment. The clothes were beautiful and perfect for the moment. The tailoring was impeccable. And the overall feeling and message is exactly what we needed.

Photo credit: @louisvuitton / Instagram


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